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Már egy hete elindult a karnevál-szezon Olaszországban, de csak most jutottunk oda, hogy elkezdjünk keresgélni valami szívünkhöz szóló színes felfordulást. Narancs-csatába idén nem vonulunk, de biztos van a környéken valami jópofa mulatság, hogy ne kelljen Velencéig zarándokolnunk!
A carnevale Olaszország-szerte hatalmas népünnepély, ami eredetileg a böjti időszak előtt a hűtőben fellelhető finomságok feléléséhez (hústól búcsúzáshoz) kapcsolódott. Mint minden évezredes szokás, ez is rendes átalakuláson ment keresztül (talán a hűtő sem volt része?) és mára csupa móka, kacagás, utcai felvonulás lett belőle – a kajálás viszont maradt. Allora, melyik is az 5 legjobb olasz karnevál?
Viareggio
A toszkán tengerparti városban már mi is jártunk többször, de mégsem ez teszi nagyszerűvé. A Pisahoz közeli helység kétszáz évvel ezelőtt még hemzsegett a hajógyártó kisiparosoktól, akik szegényes fantáziával megáldva a karnevál egy részét is vízre úsztatták.
Ma már inkább csak papírmasé hajókat eregetnek, továbbra is nagyszerű küldetéstudattal, miután végigparádézták velük a főutcát párszor. 2010-ben a fel- (és le-)vonulások időpontjai: február 14 és 16 délután 3, valamint 21-e, este 5.
A viareggio-i karneválnak van piros-fehérbe öltözött saját figurája is: Burlamacco.
Venezia
Szándékosan soroltam Velencét a második helyre, de csak azért, hogy nehogy elvegye az étvágyat a hozzánk közelebb eső Viareggiotól. Az igazság az, hogy nincs nagyobb, jobb vagy programban gazdagabb karnevál Olaszországban – a víziparádéktól a maszkabálig minden megtalálható.
A karnevál február 5-től február 24-ig tart, a részletes programot pedig megtaláljátok a Carnevale di Venezia hivatalos oldalán.
Roma
Rómában február 16-ig tart a karnevál, kiállításokkal, tradicionális olasz Commedia dell’Arte produkciókkal a Piazza Navona-n és a Piazza da Spagna-n, valamint lovasbemutatókkal a Piazza del Popolo-n.
Bár felvonulás, koncertek és tüzijáték is csurran-cseppen az érdeklődőknek, Rómába elsősorban az utcai művészek fellépéseiért érdemes ellátogatni karnevál idején.
Az “egy antik ünnep jövője” fedőnév alatt pedig szépen kicsipegethető a program a hivatalos római karneválosdi oldalán.
Ascoli Piceno
Nagykedvenc Le Marche-ban, a méltatlanul hanyagolt olasz megyében található Ascoli Piceno. Ascoli Picenoban pedig található egy karnevál. A karneválban pedig található számtalan szebbnél-szebb gondolat: gyerekek maszkos felvonulása, tradicionális utcaszínészek és fellépők és … korlát és rendőrmentes felvonulások.
Ascoli Piceno volt az a kisváros, ami az egyik húsvéti lamarche-túrán olyan szerencsés időzítéssel ejtettünk útba, hogy a főtéren senki nem volt délutáni sziesztakor. Ehhez képest a karnevál záróakkordja a Kövér Kedd (nem ugyanaz, mint a Torkos Csütörtök), amikor a Piazza del Popolot ellepik a maszkos, jelmezes turisták olaszok és az éttermek mind a Slow Food jegyében készült helyi specialitásokból álló menüvel készülnek.
Acireale
Zárásként pedig azon kitüntetetteknek, akik ilyenkor el tudnak jutni Szicíliába, had ajánljam a sziget legizgalmasabb karneválját.
A hagyományos szekér, meg Zil Iveco teherautókon guruló figurák mellett – a szicíliaiak áldott szerencséjének köszönhetően – februárban is képesek virágkarnevált rendezni. Így aztán egy politikus és két mesefigura között valódi virágokból készült színpompás szobrok is vonulnak – amit a Londoni Szimfonikus Zenekar által is irigylésre méltó zenei fesztivál kísér: konyhai eszközökre szerelve.
photo credit: pasma, atrogu, Antudo, Rickydavid
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