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Egy, csak egy pizzéria annyira híres, mint a Da Michele. A legautentikusabb
pizzéria a pizza legautentikusabb otthonában? Ezt meg kellett néznünk!
Az állomásnál ott lesz a tér. A tértől balra pedig ott lesz a pizzéria.
Több is van arra, mind jó, de ezt ne hagyjátok ki! – mondta a nápolyi (hihihi)
ismerős. Persze, hogy nem volt ott. Naná, hogy egyre mélyebbre kavarogtunk a
spanyol negyed lerobbant házai közé, ahol saját törvények uralkodnak, ahová a
rendőrök és a mentősök sem hajlandóak behajtani. Más világ az és mi táskánkat magunkhoz szorítva próbáltuk bemérni a hírneves pizzériát. De
aztán jó legyen!
Végül teljesen elvesztünk, s már a közelben lévő főútra menekülésben
gondolkodtunk, amikor eszünkbe jutott megkérdezni egy bácsikát. A Da Michele?
Persze, ott arra … tudják mit? Jöjjenek utánam! S fürge léptekkel megiramodik
az egyik utcán lefelé. Egy sarokra onnan egy lerobbant épület talponállóra
hasonlító ajtajára mutat. Ez az. Ez? Mármint a nyúlon innen, vagy a nyúlon túl?
Egy mosollyal távozik, s mi igencsak bizalmatlanul lépdelünk közelebb.
A bejárat felett Pizzeria da Michele, bent kis asztalok, vacak székek,
kórházi csempekínálat. Pedig ez lesz az, lépünk beljebb. A hely
tömve, minket két srác mellé ültetnek egy asztalhoz. Ők hamarost távoznak, mi
pedig hitetlenkedve nézzük a falra ragasztott laminált étlapot. Kétfajta pizza.
Kóla, fanta, sör. Értetlenkedve nézünk körül, aztán feljebb téved a
tekintetünk. A fal tele újságkivágásokkal, némelyik ötven éves is megvan.
“Da Michele, az igazi nápolyi pizza.” “Ebben az évben is a Da Michele-t
választották a nápolyiak a legjobb pizzázónak.” Olasz, angol, amerikai újságok,
díjak sorakoznak a falon, megelevenedik a hely. Körülöttünk pörögnek a pizzák, plexifal
mögött dolgozik a mester, a pizzakemence izzik, s félpercenként kész pizzát
varázsol elő*. De nincs hús a pizzán és én
el nem tudom képz…. mmmmm.
A pizza isteni! Puha tészta, ami valóban más mint bárhol eddig. És isteni.
Tészta, paradicsom, sajt. Isteni. Ennyi elég a boldogsághoz és mi vidáman falatozunk,
ahogy körbenézve előbukkan az eddig rejtett csoda. Eltűnnek a zöld-fehér
kórházi csempék, az olcsó asztalok és a műanyag söröspohár.
Átestünk a
beavatáson. Életünkben először valódi pizzát ettünk.
*
Megkérdeztük. Halkan csak ennyit mondtak: 8-900 naponta… Az több mint
negyedmillió pizza évente.
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